IIAD Students Showcase Lesser Known Khakhan

New Delhi, September 14, 2024 – Celebrating 2024-25 as the International Year of Batik, Indian Institute of Art and Design (IIAD), an award-winning design school based in Delhi, partnered with The Histare Group to present an exclusive exhibition showcasing KHAKHAN, the Batik of Kachch. The exhibition was a highlight of The Erbe Project, hosted by Mercedes-Benz at their T&T Motors showroom in New Delhi. The Histare Group is an Indian heritage, history and cultural think tank focused on creating sustainable solutions for cultural and business growth.

IIAD students developed swatches of Batik of Kachch as a part of their documentation with Khamir

The Erbe Project, an initiative tracing the lineage of India’s intergenerational artisan families, featured two notable collections at the exhibition. The first, titled ‘Khakhan,’ showcased the exceptional work of third-year Fashion Design students from IIAD, who documented intricate Batik motifs of Kachch. The second collection at the exhibition, was curated by renowned art curator Rahul Kumar, and presented Bhil, Khovar and Warli crafts to provide a broader perspective on Indian crafts.

IIAD students undertook detailed motif documentation of intricate Batik motifs as part of their collaboration with Khamir—a platform committed to preserving the crafts and cultural ecology of Kachchh (Gujarat). The student initiative not only showcases their design sensibilities but also underscores the relevance of integrating indigenous crafts into contemporary design practices. Through collaboration with local artisans, the students gained hands-on experience with traditional techniques, developing a deeper understanding of the cultural relevance of Batik. This marked the first-ever comprehensive record of this craft and contributed to the project’s goal of reframing Indian artisans as keepers of a timeless legacy for cultural continuity.

The Khakhan exhibition, a culmination of their efforts, featured swatches of the intricate art of batik block printing developed by the students. At IIAD, engagement with live craft clusters is integral to design education, providing students with direct exposure to craft as a form of spatial expression. This vision materialised through the live industry project with Khamir (Gujarat), where students documented Khakhan (Batik) motifs, during a 10-day study tour visiting eight batik printing units, in the districts of Bhujpur and Mundra. The project explored the contextual, sustainable and commercial aspects of craft practices while investigating the connection between technique and expression. Through interactions with Khamir, the Batik artisans of Mundra and Bhujpur requested detailed documentation of motifs of Batik from Kachchh. The artisans petitioned that Batik should be identified on the map of Kachch. Acknowledging this community initiative, IIAD’s fashion design department documented the Batik blocks of Bhuj, their narrative and profiled artisans as a starting point in preserving this textile craft.

Under the mentorship of Professor Usha Nehru Patel, Director-Academics at IIAD, the exhibition was curated by Richa Sood, Associate Professor of Fashion Design, while the exhibition experience was developed with the assistance of Kishore Chakraborty (Course Leader, Foundation in Design) and Pankaj Narain (Associate Professor, Foundation in Design). An impact study conducted by Ms. Richa Sood and Mr. Ramneek Bhatia (Chief Catalyst, Habitat India) outlining the real struggles and challenges faced by the batik craft sector of Kachchh was presented at the exhibition, highlighting their findings.

The Erbe Project: A Celebration of Culture and Tradition

Art Curator and Visual Artist, Rahul Kumar at the event

The evening unfolded as a vibrant celebration of cultural exchange, artistic exploration and performing arts. Padma Shri Kathak Guru Shovana Narayan commenced the event by addressing the significance of Indian craftsmanship. She emphasised how the exhibition, showcasing centuries-old traditions from various regions, highlighted the beauty and diversity of India’s artistic heritage. Ms Narayan acknowledged the entire team behind The Erbe Project for their tireless efforts in bringing these stories to life.

Following Ms Narayan’s address, her disciples Mahima Satsangi and Suparna Singh delivered a mesmerising live Kathak performance on the theme of ‘Intergenerational Change.’ Renowned art curator and journalist Rahul Kumar, in partnership with the Inherited Arts Forum, led guided tours showcasing Bhil, Khovar and Warli crafts. Representatives from partner organisations also delivered keynote addresses.

Panel Discussion: Revitalising Indian Artisan Legacies

Next, a panel discussion titled Revitalising Indian Artisan Legacies was moderated by Rahul Kumar, Art Curator & Art Journalist. The panel featured Padma Shri Shovana Narayan, advertising legend Shivjeet Kullar and Professor Usha Nehru Patel, Academic Director, IIAD. Expressing her optimism on the revival of Indian crafts, Ms Narayan said, “Indian crafts have a universal appeal. While other countries have lost it, India has maintained and is now witnessing a revival interest in this.”

In frame: (L-R) Mr Rahul Kumar, Mr Shivjeet Kullar, Padma Shri Shovana Narayan, Prof. Usha Nehru Patel

Shivjeet Kullar noted that to effectively connect GenZ to age-old crafts, (advertisers) must establish an authentic connection. Prof. Usha Nehru Patel observed, “Preserving heritage and innovation are not mutually exclusive. Despite advancements, our heritage remains as beautiful as ever. This demonstrates that evolution can enhance heritage, making it more relevant. To effectively preserve heritage, you need to be sensitive.” She also advocated for design education as a catalyst for innovation emphasising its role in fostering creative problem-solving and its potential to benefit society. The discussion concluded with a collective agreement that embracing both tradition and modernity requires evolution and innovation as essential components.

The Erbe Project’s Impact

As a part of The Erbe Project, Ms. Richa Sood (IIAD) and Mr. Ramneek Bhatia (Chief Catalyst, Habitat India) also conducted an impact analysis outlining the real struggles and challenges faced by the sector (in conversations with the artisans). The aim of the impact study was to explore possibilities for collaborative initiatives by experts to reposition Khakhan (Batik of Kachchh), on the textile map of India. The challenges included market opportunities, fair prices, the need for funds to expand production, sustainability challenges and widening awareness of the craft. The study suggested actions to make sustenance and production processes technologically and environmentally efficient.